THE Col du Lautaret breaches the high ridges of the French Alps between the city of Grenoble and the fortified town of Briançon.

Well known even to those who have never visited France, millions have watched the images transmitted by motorcycle- or helicopter-mounted cameras as the leading cyclists of the Tour de France peel off the main road to tackle one of the race’s most punishing climbs.

They are already at 2058 m of altitude and have no time to glance aside at the Lautaret Alpine Garden and Arboretum as they plunge downwards to gain speed before starting up the infamous gradients of the Col du Galibier.

Forestry Journal: Established at its present site a century ago, the two-hectare Lautaret Alpine Botanical Garden occupies an exceptional geographical location. At the crossroads of the northern and southern Alps, the diversity of climatic influences and geological landforms has generated an extraordinarily high botanic diversity.Established at its present site a century ago, the two-hectare Lautaret Alpine Botanical Garden occupies an exceptional geographical location. At the crossroads of the northern and southern Alps, the diversity of climatic influences and geological landforms has generated an extraordinarily high botanic diversity.

This unique botanical garden was first conceived by the scientific University of Grenoble in 1899, four years before the Touring Club de France organised the first ‘Tour’. In 1919, however, road improvements to the highway across the Col du Galibier necessitated the resiting of the alpine specimens. Pioneering botanists and road racers collaborated in the construction of an accommodation chalet to be used by both organisations. The university was eager to establish research laboratories and museums relating to the area’s geology, ethnology and history. The Touring Club de France was realising the exciting racing potential offered by the high mountain routes such as Alpe-d’Huez, Col de la Croix de Fer and now the newly realigned Col du Galibier.

As it happens the new botanic garden site at Lautaret is actually a little higher than these summits and now forms the only high-altitude biological research station in Europe. Lying at the crossroads of not only the northern and southern Alps but also the external and internal Alps, its diversity of landforms and climatic influences combine to create an outstanding geographical and botanical location.

Forestry Journal: The monument to Captain Scott and his team was erected in 1913 by members of the French Antarctic Expeditions that had failed to reach the Pole in 1904 and 1909.The monument to Captain Scott and his team was erected in 1913 by members of the French Antarctic Expeditions that had failed to reach the Pole in 1904 and 1909.

Col du Lautaret’s varied climatic influences are noticeable in its vegetation. Very different types of forests can be found growing within close proximity. In the western Romanche valley, beech and spruce characterise the wet, external Alps.  Eastwards, Scots pine and larch are a feature of the Guisane valley. Larch forests typify the inner Alps, which have a dry and sunny summer climate. Higher altitudes support the Mountain pine and the Arolla pine.

Forestry Journal: La Meije (3984 m) dominates the view west from the Col du Lautaret’s botanic garden.La Meije (3984 m) dominates the view west from the Col du Lautaret’s botanic garden.

Above the garden the Lautaret high-altitude arboretum was established in 1974 by the State Forestry Service (ONF). The objective was to assess the growth characteristics of conifers situated near to the treeline. In a historical context, the Belgian super-cyclist Eddy Merckx was then at the height of his powers. When cycling the stage from Aix-les-Bains he was ahead of the bunch, up and over the Col du Galibier in blazing sunshine.  Passing the developing arboretum at Col du Lautaret, he then led all the way down through the conifer forests of the Guisane valley to take the stage at Serre-Chevalier. Merckx was to hold onto the yellow jersey until he reached the Arc de Triomphe in Paris.  

The newly planted trees of the arboretum would have to survive the severe winter elements on the mountainside. Although the public road between Grenoble and Briançon is normally kept clear, several metres of snow can cloak Lautaret’s specimens for months. However, it has been noted that in years such as 2001/2002 lack of precipitation coupled with very low temperatures can cause multiple casualties as the insulating effect of snow cover is lacking.

Forestry Journal: The male pollen-releasing cones of the Mountain pine are creamy yellow… although they can occasionally be red! In 1987 the Danish botanist Knud Ib Christensen carried out a major study to bring conformity to the nomenclature and identification of the Mountain pine. Ten years later the Frenchman Roman Businský studied the tree across its whole range, turned Christensen’s work on its head, and named a new variety or hybrid growing in Switzerland.The male pollen-releasing cones of the Mountain pine are creamy yellow… although they can occasionally be red! In 1987 the Danish botanist Knud Ib Christensen carried out a major study to bring conformity to the nomenclature and identification of the Mountain pine. Ten years later the Frenchman Roman Businský studied the tree across its whole range, turned Christensen’s work on its head, and named a new variety or hybrid growing in Switzerland.

Maturing trees that emerge above the snow fields are susceptible to damage of varying degrees. The larch (Larix decidua) is adapted to winter survival at altitude by losing its needles. Not only is the weight of snow upon the branches reduced, water loss is also limited. The growth form of the Scots pine (Pinus sylvestris) renders it prone to stem and branch breakage when subjected to heavy snowfall.

The Mountain pine (P. uncinata), on the other hand, can grow in fairly dense stands, even where the snowfall is considerably heavy. The tree’s limber branches are able to droop almost vertically to shed accumulated snow. A dwarf form of this species (often denoted by the scientific name P. mugo) is particularly hardy. This low-growing, multi-stemmed shrub is adapted to take maximum advantage of the sunlight available in the short snow-free summer season.

Forestry Journal: All the Mountain pines have a uniquely recognisable feature on the female cones. The scales have a small protruding hook to which the trees owe their scientific appellation (uncinata) and their common French name Pin à crochet.All the Mountain pines have a uniquely recognisable feature on the female cones. The scales have a small protruding hook to which the trees owe their scientific appellation (uncinata) and their common French name Pin à crochet.

It is thought that the naturally occurring stands of the five-needled Arolla pine (P. cembra) were once far more extensive in the Alpine ranges than they are today. Summer grazing of stock in the high meadows, together with timber cutting by the accompanying herdsmen, have certainly had an influence on the distribution of this species.

That said, the large seeds of this pine are dispersed, in the main, by the jay-like spotted nutcracker (Nucifraga caryocatactes). Seedlings generally emerge from the forgotten seed caches of these birds and those of rodents. The resulting trees often form widely spaced stands, small groves or occur as individuals in the meadows – sturdy stems able to cope with the worst of the Alpine winters.

Forestry Journal: Robert Ruffier-Lanche was meticulous in recording the provenance, treatment and planting locations of the tree specimens he introduced to the Lautaret Alpine Botanical Garden.Robert Ruffier-Lanche was meticulous in recording the provenance, treatment and planting locations of the tree specimens he introduced to the Lautaret Alpine Botanical Garden.

Research at the Lautaret high-altitude arboretum was initially targeted at preserving and protecting the naturally occurring forests of the Alps, but the innovative use of altitude-resilient trees in the man-modified environment was also an objective. The Arolla pine – also known as the Swiss stone pine – has for many decades been planted above the natural treeline to stabilise the snowfields. The proliferation of winter sports in the French Alps in recent years has seen an increase in the importance of this type of forestry for reducing the avalanche threat to ski slopes and resorts.

Forestry Journal: Together with the alpine garden, the Lautaret chalet-laboratory constitutes part of the Joseph Fourier alpine station; named after a former prefect of the department of Isère. The third constituent is the low-level Robert Ruffier-Lanche arboretum on the banks of the River Isère at the university campus in the city of Grenoble itself.Together with the alpine garden, the Lautaret chalet-laboratory constitutes part of the Joseph Fourier alpine station; named after a former prefect of the department of Isère. The third constituent is the low-level Robert Ruffier-Lanche arboretum on the banks of the River Isère at the university campus in the city of Grenoble itself.

The Lautaret Alpine Botanical Garden, which has experienced mixed fortunes over the last hundred years, owes its existence to the persistence of several dedicated individuals. The eighteenth-century doctor and botanist Dominique Villars was local to the Haute-Alpes area and had been the first to research the remarkable biodiversity of the mountains and valleys.  A century later, Professor Jean-Paul Lachmann of the University of Grenoble proposed the formation of a garden at the Col du Lautaret to study the flora of the area. Its establishment commenced in 1899 with the assistance of M. Bonnabel who owned the Hotel des Glaciers at the top of the mountain pass.

One notable early visitor to the area at this time is commemorated near the Lautaret arboretum. Captain Robert Falcon Scott and members of his polar exploration team spent the winter of 1908 up in the snowfields of the Lautaret Pass training for the ill-fated expedition to the South Pole. It was also an ideal location for the development and trialling of the team’s equipment. 

Professor Marcel Mirande was in charge of the venture when roadworks necessitated the transplanting of the specimens to the garden’s current site in 1919. In this task he was greatly assisted by the Touring Club of France and the railway company Paris-Lyon-Méditerranée (PLM) who owned another hotel-restaurant at the Col. The building constructed to house the university staff still stands and is known as the Chalet Mirande.

Forestry Journal: A member of the White pine group, the Arolla pine’s needles sprout in bundles of five. Its growth is steady rather than fast even in cold climates. It is known that the tree can live for 500–600 years.A member of the White pine group, the Arolla pine’s needles sprout in bundles of five. Its growth is steady rather than fast even in cold climates. It is known that the tree can live for 500–600 years.

The following decade saw a rapid expansion in research into alpine ecosystems at Lautaret until recession – and later the Second World War – limited the use of the facility. The momentum of the project was reinvigorated in 1950 with the appointment of Robert Ruffier-Lanche as head of horticulture at the university.

Robert Ruffier-Lanche had also been a hotelier in the Alps. After his father’s death, Robert managed the hotel-restaurant Le Petit Mont Blanc with his mother for a couple of decades.  His main interest however was the botany of his locality, the Massif de la Vanoise. He had established a small alpine garden in the hotel grounds and was a highly respected member of the Société Botanique de France. An excellent self-taught photographer, Robert’s years in the hospitality profession had also endowed him with linguistic skills and international contacts.

Forestry Journal: The tree form of the Mountain pine is common in the Pyrenees and the western Alps. Its biological classification – its taxonomy – has always led to some considerable confusion. In the 1700s the Italian botanist Antonio Turra named the tree Pinus mugo while the Frenchman Louis Ramonde referred to it as P. uncinata.The tree form of the Mountain pine is common in the Pyrenees and the western Alps. Its biological classification – its taxonomy – has always led to some considerable confusion. In the 1700s the Italian botanist Antonio Turra named the tree Pinus mugo while the Frenchman Louis Ramonde referred to it as P. uncinata.

Despite a lack of formal qualifications, Robert Ruffier-Lanche was recruited by the University of Grenoble where one of his main tasks was the restoration of the Lautaret Alpine Botanical Garden. 70 years on, his most obvious legacy are the trees that form the centrepieces of the distinct montane flora collections typical of ranges across the globe.  Many of the arboricultural specimens are conifers but Robert had a particular interest in the genus Betula. His collection of birches has recently been recatalogued by university staff to conform to present-day taxonomical standards.

A slight change of name in a mountain-dwelling birch will probably go unnoticed by the hordes of spectators waiting to watch the world’s top cyclists fighting it out to the summit of the Col du Lautaret. Professional cycling is a serious affair but a more deadly battle was fought at the mountain pass in 1944.

In the liberation of France, Free French forces attacked a German infantry column climbing up to the Col du Lautaret from Briançon. The German commander ordered reprisals to be taken when the column reached the summit. The railway company’s hotel was burnt to the ground and the owner of the Hotel des Glaciers, Paul Bonnabel, was executed. The rest of the settlement, including Auguste Prével (then head of horticulture at Lautaret), were taken hostage and forced to march ahead of the German column towards Grenoble. M. Prével and seventeen other men, many with links to the alpine botanic garden, lost their lives when a mine exploded in one of the road’s tunnels.

Since 2005 the reputation of the Lautaret Alpine Botanical Garden, and its associated high-altitude arboretum, has been in the ascendancy. Professor Serge Aubert – until his untimely sudden death at the age of 48 in 2015 – had been appointed director of the institution.  Serge had the uncanny ability to turn the venue into both a world-renowned scientific research station and a major Alpine tourist attraction.

With up to 20,000 paying visitors through the garden’s gate in recent years, watching the ‘peleton’ streak across the summit in less than a minute is not the only motivation for visiting the Col du Lautaret.